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Money talks. Let's continue with it. We are staying in Cuba as it was meant at first. Yep, we succeeded to get money. Where was the problem? Our banks sent us a message that we over pass monthly limit of withdrawing the money. That’s why we couldn’t get money from ATM machines and even at bank counter. We found out agency called Asistur which is helping tourist when they have financial difficulties. They work on a principal of a regular shop. Actually you “buy” desire amount of money and pay 15% commission (3% goes to the bank, 12% takes Asistur). This is a robbery in the middle of the day but what else you can do.
Let’s celebrate! ¡Dame un mojito por favor! It’s obvious that this is homeland of rum. They aren’t parsimonious with it. The only thing I miss is lime, or at least lemon. But as they say it’s not a season right now and you can barely get real mojito in April. Rum is very cheap. You can buy 0,33 liters of Havana club (añejo 3 años) for 2,6€ in the store. Cocktails are usually about 1,2€. I’m wondering what the local price of rum is when locals are consuming it like crazy. During the weekend they have picnics on the beach, bindingly with liter bottle of Havana Club. They are standing in the sea and sharing the bottle. At the end of the day when you’re walking on the beach you’ll see hundreds of empty bottles and cans. It’s not so rare seeing people pissing on the wall of private houses. Whoever you look in the eyes you’ll see nothing but red and drunk eyes. Like the old man who grabbed me tight for my arm in the middle of the day and in the middle of the street probably in the phase when he realized for a second that he’s walking among tourists. He wanted us to give him something to eat. I really don’t like this! Actually I’m surprised they aren’t more violent despite all consumed alcohol.
However, Cuba leans for centuries on sugar production (consecutively on rum production). Canya de azucar is the guilty one and it grows successfully on Cuban earth beside tobacco, coffee and tropical fruits. In 18th century there was a great demand for sugar from Spaniards because they had a hunch that it represents real fortune. Massive production of sugar requested higher working power which meant at that time importing more slaves. In the beginning of 19th century there was about 350.000 of slaves which can be still detected in cultural mixture of Cuban inhabitants.
We are entering in casas particulares from white and black Cubans. Our first casa particular we found surprisingly over internet. Ana Julia was a great host and managed all further reservations at other’s casas. For her it is very important to keep good relations with other casas so they can “exchange” tourists. Every legal casa particular pays monthly between 110 and 150€ to the state even if they don’t have any tourist in that particular month. You’ll pay for 2 about 20€ for accommodation, 1,8€ for breakfast and about 6€ for dinner. Food in casas is very delicious and variegated. Cubans are very good cooks and they will do their best with serving. Señor Miguel was flattered when I told him I admire chick-pea and his soup was really excelente. Wherever we are there’s something new. Fruta bomba (that’s papaya) and guayava are almost obligatory part of breakfast. You’ll be served with them as fresh sliced fruits, marmalade or shake. As a potato lover I enjoy eating boniato (that’s sweet potato) and malanga. Malanga is made of smashed potato, onion, garlic, pepper and salt. They make lumps and fry them. Don’t let me talk about prawns. I’m glad of spending time in Baracoa town (part of Guantanamo region) which is famous of its chocolate. Every morning there’s a mug of hot chocolate waiting for me together with breakfast. Smile on my face is guaranteed. I’m wondering how we would shift as well as they are in this system where you get on monthly basis 2 liters of rice, plenty of sugar, 2 decilitres of oil, half of chicken, a few beans and one small roll of bread per day (if I understood correctly)?
We wanted to dance our polka-salsa, as our friend would say, but courage failed us in Casa de la Trova where we had a great time listening live band. According to our local guide Noel de Santiago de Cuba we should enjoy in music of famous Cuban musitians like Paulito FG., N-G la banda, Adalberto Alvarez y su son, La Charanga Habanera, Pupi y los que son son, Pedrito y la justicia, Eliades Ochoa, Arnaldo y su talisman. Do you think there’s a connection between these 2 words rum and rumba?
PS: We all know what’s Cuba libre. White rum mixed with Cola. How’s called white rum mixed with Cola Cola light? Cuba rebelde.
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